Wet N2O system ?'s re-visted

[Mr Rogers]

Well as you all know I have my NX Gen-X kit jsut sitting here waiting to be installed and now it looks like I am just going to wait until next spring to bust into the 12's as the last race is this friday. Now I was planning on doing this with only the dry side of the systme and not run fuel as I have never personally spoke with anybody running a wet type system with their blower. I also talked to JRCivic and he told me about the elevated pressures causing untold problems with the wet nitrous setups. Yesterday while ordering replacement decals for all my solenoids I spoke with one of the techs about the reasons I chose not to run a full wet stup the way it is supposed to be done (no personal tales of the use with our blowers and the fuel pressures). First he gave me the equation and numbers need to make sure I run enough fuel if I choose to use just the N2O and then he told me about the capabilities of the EFI kits. The one example that he told me about basically made me need to question weather or not to run the fuel and N2O or just the N2O. First of all the solenoids are Way bigger then the peuny NOS ones and he told me that the Cobra rustangs are seeing pressures upwards of 100psi using the EFI kits with no problems. My top side pressure right now is at 80psi so I think I can get away fine with running the fuel but now I need to make sure the fuel isn't going to have any adverse effects on the blower it's self. Anybody know of anyone running a wet system on the JRSC? Some race teams supposedly are doing it but they also have lots of money to buy new blowers Any and all imput is helpful here so please chime in with any comment (Even if you think I am stupid for even attmpting to run the fuel) here. Thanks guys

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".

[CROM]

Rog,

I do remember some yellow and black civic running 12's(with original motor, no hybrid) running a 50 shot and the JR charger. I dont think he had a wet kit, but he used 2 secondary injectors mounted before the TB. Of course, who knows what happened to that guy, he was in superstreet a while back. I believe he lived in Canada, and you can never trust those folks,

I have no experience in this situation, so, I am of no use. I am installing a dry setup this weekend.

Doesn't it suck being the guinea pig!

[Mr Rogers]

I remember that guy and yes it does kinda suck being the guinea pig but somebody has got to do it. I think I am also going to give Clutch Net Clutches a try rather then the Clutch specialties. Materials and methods are very sound and the customer service so far has been great. Another great thing is that these clutches along with Exeddy are the only ones that I know of that are "New" and not built up versions of the factory clutches. Here is a link to take a look http://www.groupbuycenter.com/buy.as...ad&row_id=1363 I think I am going to do the fiber-tuff full face kit. Well no imput in the form of a rely is better then silence, so thank CROM

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".

[This message has been edited by Mr Rogers (edited September 26, 2000).]

[CROM]

No problem man, I just dont think anyone has really done it and I dont know about the adverse effects of having fuel run through the blower, I am sure it isnt a good thing!

Jim told me that I should go one step colder plugs(I am running stock) and increase static fuel pressure 3-4psi. I have the BTC so that will help, I can just turn it down a notch or two, but of course that wont help the leaning condition if it arises, but I dont think it will be a problem with a 20 or 25 shot. You have the J&S, the Cartech, and 310cc's, so I would consider you pretty safe, I assume you have plenty of power on the road, saying you have 8 psi, and would only use the Juice at the track or on some pesky Viper or something .....An AFC or some other type of controller would be a good thing for you, because you could increase the mix on the fly in the cockpit, instead of having to get out and adjust the cartech or the vortech.

I will let you know how my nitrous setup goes, hopefully I can get it in this week!

[CivicR]

Mr. Rogers....there was a guy in Tampa, Florida that worked at Spec-R tuning...his name is Kurt Skinner....he had the NOS dry setup if Im correct...they picked up 40 wheel HP from a very small shot...for a total HP of 310 at the wheels@ 12 psi...if I were you I would give John Gadd the owner of Spec-R tuning a call and get some info on it...this way you are not the guinea pig here...he is a very knowlegable guy...and is always willing to talk!!...his number is (813)910-7235

If you need any more info just email me or post here

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John
B18C1 powered Civic EX Coupe
'92 Civic VX Hatch...waiting for H22A

[This message has been edited by CivicR (edited September 26, 2000).]

[MDA]

Ever watch TopFuel dragsters with their hugeass blowers uptop... run wet NOS through the blower... works great... until it lights (occassionally)... and the blower explodes off the top of the motor ... something to keep in mind...

[Mr Rogers]

Ignites Damn! Thanks CivicR, maybe I'll give him a call. I am not too worry about "dry" setup issues though because I know that it will work ok. I am just teetering on the wet vs dry debate.

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".

[rjaffey]

I agree, you want the nitrous and fuel to mix as close to the chamber as possible. If you fill the blower and manifold with the combination, you will not only have fuel distribution problems and degradation of lubricants in the blower, you will also be playing with explosives. It'll only take a backfire through one of the intake ports to set it off.

[This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited September 27, 2000).]

[Mr Rogers]

FAAAHHK-IT! Dry it is An explosion is all I need to ruin my year. I have exact flow rates for the jets now so I can calculate fuel needed to keep 5.5-6:1 ratio. The 25 shot jet flows 93.6 lb/hr of nitrous so I need 17 lb/hr of fuel. But how do I convert this to psi or my flow rate with the 310's? Owell, now I guess it is just time to get the install done. What sucks is that I just put my stock exhuast back on and though it is cool being the "Silent killer" I am seeing 10psi at the top end now The Thermal definitely free flowing I bumped the top side fuel up 4 psi to stay on the safe side. Well thanks guys, and anyone who still wants to post pros or cons feel free. Bring on the Juice!

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".

[JRCivic]

Javin,

In case I was not really clear about the fuel pressure issue... here is what concerned me. Peak pressures are NOT a problem. Just as the guys at NX claim... the lines and solenoids will handle well in excess of 100 psi. What concerns me is the "Fluctuation" of fuel pressure: for example, lets say you are at the track. You floor it out of the light. The boost immediately jumps up to 7psi... until you reach about 4500rpm, then your last pound or two comes in, for a total of 9psi. This means that for a second, your fuel pressure was say 75psi... then at higher rpm, it was 80 psi. So, do you set your fuel pressures to be right down low (in which case you are a little fat on fuel up top - but this increases the possibility of the dreaded "backfire" that Rafe warned of), or do you tune for the top side, in which case you are a bit LEAN on the bottom (being Lean is NEVER good).

It is your call.

Lastly, passing any caustic medium through the blower is BAD for it. IT invades the teflon coating on the blower lobes. THIS IS NOT A GOOD IDEA, unless you want to buy blowers on a regular basis. Chemical damage to the teflon is easy to spot, so if you kill a blower, JR will tell you to pound sand !!! Your warranty will be void.

Wet systems should be done at the manifold... you are better off drilling and tapping FOUR holes directly behind each of the four intake runners and plumbing it this way as opposed to one jet before the T/B.


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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph